Chefs and CEO's, Chefs are CEO's

"...With kitchen turned into metaphor and BECOMING A CHEF the roadmap, it's easy to chart parallels to success in more traditional business milieus. Looked at from that angle, the professional skills of chefs become more complex, instructive and fascinating — putting them on par with those of business titans and mavericks. For anyone who undervalues the deep pool of talent that resides in the back of the house, perhaps it's time to look more closely and glean tips that can be used in any setting.

• Like the best CEOs, chefs are driven by attitude and moxie. They're loath to accept mediocrity and rarely are undecided about the best approach to accomplish their goals.

• They live by numbers, constantly working them through in their head. They know the inputs and the impact. Whether dollars, gallons or degrees, the math must always work.

• Chefs understand with absolute certainty the importance of paying attention to everything — the big picture as well as the smallest detail. A single thing can bring down the house-even one bad clam or a bunch of unwashed green onions.

• The kitchen is their world and they know it intuitively, experientially and completely. With one glance, a chef can gauge and respond to the landscape of the day.

• Results are measurable and readily apparent. If it's working and the marketplace responds, gratification is nearly instantaneous.

• In the end, execution is all that really matters. If the plan can't be carried out, even the most brilliant ideas and business proposals will collapse like a cold soufflé.

• And finally, a chef's success — like that of a CEO — is an elusive goal and it's not easy to reach. Says Edna Lewis inBECOMING A CHEF: "Restaurant work is hard work. But you don't give up-you try to improve every day, even on the old things you do. It's a never-ending learning process."
  — Patricia Dailey, RESTAURANTS & INSTITUTIONS(3/1/04)

Grace and Knife Work

"Grace, believe me is necessary when handling a knife. I can always tell a professional chef from a home-cook. The knife work gives them away. There's an ECONOMY OF MOVEMENT and WARRIORLIKE AGGRESSIVENESS that immediately identifies a chef." - Bin from A Book of Salt by Monique Truong

I Want To Pull My Apron and Throw It Away!

It's one of those days when I just want to throw pans and post everywhere. Pull my apron. Walk out and say, I quit!

But I'm a better person than that. I don't walk out of fallen souffles or overcooked fish. I deal with the problem and fix it.

So I got over it and stayed. Besides, it will reflect on me as a person, more than just as a cook, to not be able to deal with, in kitchen terms, 'crap.' I just try to make the most out of the situation by making the best plate I've ever made one after the other... the tallest souffle that has ever risen in the oven one after the other, the most perfectly cooked scallop they ever tasted, the best seared foie I ever threw in a smoking hot pan.

I'm a cook! Not a quitter! That to some is an entire profession.

Quick Treat For Kids - Spaghetti Ice Cream

It's always tricky to come up with something kids will love. But kids love spaghetti. And they LOVE ice cream too! So, how about some Spaghetti Ice Cream
Marinara Sauce => Raspberry or Strawberry Preserve / Jam / Compote
Spaghetti => Vanilla Ice Cream passed through a ricer (keep the ricer cold before use)
Basil => Chopped Mint
Parmesan => Shaved White Chocolate

Yum!

Langues de Chat

One of my favorite cookies! Nice to nibble with coffee or tea. They make good garnish to custard and ice cream desserts too.

The recipe? Same as the Tuile!
1# Butter
1# Sugar
1# Egg Whites
1# Sifted Flour
Pinch of Salt
Method: Cream, Add whites in increments. Pulse the paddle briefly after adding the flour

Using a round #3 or #4 tip, pipe batter out a silpat and bake at 350 for 12 minutes, rotate every 4 to 6 minutes for even browning.

Slide metal spatula immediately after they come out of the oven, otherwise, they crisp up and will break when released from the silpat. Sprinkle powdered sugar when cooling. Allow to cool at room temp then store in airtight containers.

Variations: Sprinkle with nuts, sprinkle with coco nibs, flavor with chocolate (replace 20% of the flour with coco powder.

By the way, batter works best at room temp!

Tuile

A French word used in reference to a thin, sweet, crisp cookie that is in the shape of a curved tile. The hot cookie is place on a round object after it is baked and left there until cooled. It holds the shape of the round object, resulting in a cookie shaped like a curved tile. There are special molds for shaping the cookie or a rolling pin can also be used. Traditionally these cookies are flavored with almonds but can also be found in vanilla, lemon and orange.

Recipe
1# Butter
1# Sugar
1# Egg Whites
1# Sifted Flour
Pinch of Salt
*Prepare a stencil for the desired shape of the cookie
Method: Creaming (use a paddle)

Stencil batter on a silpat and bake at 350-375F

Chocolate Tuile - For a chocolate Tuile, coco powder may be substituted with flour for 25-37% but flexibility may be compromised because coco powder does not have gluten.
Butter and Egg whites may break. Why? Unlike egg yolks, egg whites do not contain lecithin which is the emulsifying agent.

Vegetarian Option for Gelatine?

Gelatin is one of the most commonly used thickeners especially in bakeshops. It is a natural product from collagen, an animal protein. To use gelatin, two step process is followed, namely: “blooming” or softening of gelatin in cold water without melting it, and dissolution in hot liquid. It is available in two forms: granulated gelatin and sheet or leaf gelatin

Sheet or Leaf Gelatin – Most of the time derived from cow; Average weight is 1/10 oz or 3 grams per sheet; Preferred over granulated gelatin because of lack of flavor and color; Tends to dissolve more readily and evenly; has a longer shelf life; Each sheet can only absorb 1/2 oz of water

Powdered or Granulated Gelatin – Most of the time derived from pig; Average weight of 1 tsp is 1/10 oz; Should be softened in water in 5x its weight; Should also be heated gently to dissolve; amount of water needed to dissolve gelatin should always be specified in the recipe, especially when using granulated gelatin, as this may contribute to scaling issues. Any type of gelatin is NOT vegetarian-friendly.

Gelatin Substitutes for Vegetarians
1-Kosher Gelatin - comes from fish bones

2-Agar-agar comes from seaweed.
It is used widely in asian cuisine but must be used sparingly. It has 9x tightening power more than ordinary gelatin

3-Carageena - comes from moss

4-Pectin- also an alternative stabilizer but is heat activated. This may be used for heated / cooked products such as pies. It may not work however with souffle as it becomes too hot

There are a lot of other stabilizers in the market nowadays but they may not be natural.

How Much Gelatine Do I Need?

When using gelatin, use only enough amount to stabilize product; excessive amounts will alter the product’s taste.

Blooming: Allowing gelatin to absorb water; Cold water allows pearls to swell

Gelatin melts at 86F and solidifies at 68F.

1t powdered gelatin = 1 sheet of gelatin
1 sheet of gelatin = 1/10 of an oz
10 sheets of gelatin = 1 oz
1 sheet of gelatin absorbs 1/2 oz water during the bloom
(*water, milk and eggs are equal part by weight and volume, the difference in specific gravity is the same)

As long as cream or meringue is not added into the gelatin mixture, we can still reheat gelatin mixture again and again to dissolve the gelatin.

Papain: Enzyme in fruits which inhibits gelatinization. To counter this, heat puree to 175F

Ratios:
3 sheets (or 3t or 1/3 oz) to 1 quart to STABILIZE
5 sheets (or 1T + 2t 1/2 oz ) to 1 quart to SET

Meringue Math

It's all about ratio!

A. Common Meringue:
Proportion: 2 parts whites : 1 part sugar (or equal to egg whites)
Uses: Leavener for baked goods like mousses or lady fingers
Method of Production:
1 - Whip egg whites until it’s 4x its volume and no liquid is visible
2 - Steam-in sugar
3 - Whip the mixture until soft peak and sugar is dissolved

B. Italian Meringue
Proportion: 1 part whites : 2 parts sugar
Uses: Emulsion like mousses, butter cream
Method of Production:
1 - Whip egg whites until it’s 4x its volume and no liquid is visible
2 - Stream-in sugar melted at 240 degrees or ‘soft ball’ stage
3 - Whip to desired peak or temperature
* the longer egg white is whipped, the denser it becomes
4 - Add flavoring agents (or gelatin) as necessary

C. Swiss Meringue
Proportion: 2 parts sugar : 1 part whites
Uses: Cookies or Baked Alaska, may be used as topping or mouses but since the egg is not cooked, it may be unsafe
Method of Production:
1 - Heat together egg whites and sugar in a double broiler until 100-140 degrees until the sugar is melted
2 - Whip until cool and thick in a mixer
It should look fluffy like marshmallows
* If eggs will not be heated, the use of pasteurized eggs is appropriate

Meringue Making

1 - Eggs foam at 70 degrees F

2 - Mild Acids Aid in foaming
Acid in forms of cream of tartar, lime or lemon juice or vinegar will do. There’s no need to add acid to the recipe, wiping the bowl with vinegar to clean it is good enough.

Cream of Tartar is a by product of the fermentation process of tannin scraped out of oak barrels. It feels really really dry to the mouth. It taste like dry acid. Well, it IS dry acid.

3 - Fat inhibits foaming
Ensure that the bowl to be used is clean. Any amount of fat left on the bowl may inhibit foaming. Egg yolks contain fat too so the mixing bowl as well as the separated egg whites should be free of any remnants of egg yolks

Ensure also that in separating eggs, especially in bigger batches, clean hands are used instead of the egg shells because salmonella resides in the egg shells

4 - Sugar stabilizes egg foams
Sugar functions as stiffener, stabilizer and preservative in meringue

5 - Do not over-whip
Over-whipping the egg whites causes synersis, also known as curdling. This is the point at which protein strands are stretched too much and they begin snapping. The protein web is broken and the water stored in each protein cell walls are released producing a liquid mixture that resembles curds and whey.

NM Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipe - The Real Deal!

An urban myth is a modern folk tale, its origins unknown, its believability enhanced simply by the frequency with which it is repeated.

Ingredients

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1 cup light brown sugar 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-3/4 cups all purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 teaspoons instant espresso coffee powder 1-1/2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips Directions 1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Cream the butter with the sugars using an electric mixer on medium speed until fluffy (approximately 30 seconds) 2. Beat in the egg and the vanilla extract for another 30 seconds. 3. In a mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and beat into the butter mixture at low speed for about 15 seconds. Stir in the espresso coffee powder and chocolate chips. 4. Using a 1 ounce scoop or a 2 tablespoon measure, drop cookie dough onto a greased cookie sheet about 3 inches apart. Gently press down on the dough with the back of a spoon to spread out into a 2 inch circle. Bake for about 20 minutes or until nicely browned around the edges. Bake a little longer for a crispier cookie. Yield: 2 dozen cookies

$250 NM Cookie Recipe - An Urban Legend

I guess it is!

$250 Neiman Marcus Cookie Recipe

It's one of those forwards that I hardly ever read... but it sounded like a good chocolate chip cookie recipe!

-----------------------
When decent people get screwed over, this is the result!

A little background: Neiman-Marcus, if you don't know already,
is a very expensive store; I..e., they sell your typical $8.00
T-shirt for $50.00.

Let's let them have it! THIS IS A TRUE STORY!

My daughter and I had just finished a salad at a Neiman-Marcus
Cafe In Dallas, and we decided to have a small dessert. Because both of us are such cookie lovers, we decided to try the 'Neiman-Marcus cookie.' It was So excellent that I asked if they would give me the recipe, and the waitress said with a small frown, 'I'm afraid not, but you can buy The Recipe.' Well, I asked how much, and she responded, ' Only two fifty - it's a Great deal!' I agreed to that, and told her to just add it to my tab.

Thirty days later, I received my VISA statement, and the
Neiman-Marcus Charge was $285.00! I looked again, and I remembered I had only spent $9.95 for two salads and about $20.00 for a scarf.

As I glanced at the bottom of the statement, it said,
'Cookie Recipe-$250.00.' That was Outrageous! I called Neiman's Accounting Department and told them the waitress said it was 'two fifty', which clearly does not mean 'two hundred and fifty dollars' by any reasonable interpretation of the phrase.

Neiman-Marcus refused to budge. They would not refund my money because, according to them, 'What the waitress told you is not our problem. You have already seen the Recipe. We absolutely will not refund your money at this point.' I explained to the Accounting Department lady the criminal statutes which govern fraud in the State of Texas I threatened to report them to the Better Business Bureau and the Texas Attorney General's office for engaging in fraud.

I was basically told, 'Do what you want. Don't bother thinking of how you can get even, and don't bother trying to get any of your money back.

I just said, Okay, you folks got my $250, and now I'm going to
have $250 worth of fun. I told her that I was going to see to it
that every Cookie Lover in the United States with an e-mail account has a $250 cookie recipe From Neiman-Marcus...for free. She replied, 'I wish you wouldn't do this.' I said, 'Well, perhaps you should have thought of that before you ripped me off!' and slammed down the phone.

So here it is!

I paid $250 for this, and I don't want Neiman-Marcus to EVER
make another penny off of this recipe!

NEIMAN-MARCUS COOKIES (Recipe may be halved)

2 cups butter
24 oz. Chocolate chips
4 cups flour
2 cups brown sugar
2 tsp. soda
1 tsp. salt
2 cups sugar
1 8 oz. Hershey Bar (grated)
5 cups blended oatmeal
4 eggs
2 tsp. Baking powder
2 tsp. Vanilla
3 cups chopped nuts (your choice)

Measure oatmeal, and blend in a blender to a fine powder. Cream the butter and both sugars. Add eggs and vanilla, mix together with flour, oatmeal, salt, baking powder, and soda . Add chocolate chips, Hershey bar, and nuts. Roll into balls, and place two inches apart on a cookie Sheet. Bake for 10 minutes at 375 degrees.

Makes 112 cookies.

Finally, Called To The Stove

Recently, I was assigned to move to the H/A station (Hot Appetizers). It's the first step to getting on the line from Garde Manger (Cold Station). It's like... being called to the stove.

Much as I couldn't wait to be on the line, I must admit that I'm not a very big fan of this station.

I was on Garde Manger for the longest time now (here in California, back in New York, I was working on the line) and I was just getting bored. I needed something new to do. I needed to learn how to cook on the line.

I must say that there's a huge difference between cooking AND cooking on the line. I'll expound on that later. And, there's an even bigger difference between cooking on the line from my job in New York and cooking on the line on my job now in California.

Cooking is pretty intuitive. Or at least to me it is. Taste it, smell it, taste it, smell it and cook it till it's done, till it's right. Till it's perfect. Till I like it, just until I love it.

Cooking on the line is a whole different ball game. There's a logistical strategy in play when you think about it.

1 - Prepping - a lot of the items may take a long time to cook. The sauces especially. But that's the beauty of it. It takes time for the sauces to cook down. It develops flavor as it cooks. And while sauces are cooking, cream has to be reduced for fondue, Wine and Shallots are reducing for Beurre Blanc, Potatoes are in the pot for Papas, Greens are blanched for building pots and making purees and I have to do my knife work while I have everything going on the stove.

2 - Setting up - I have to heat up my soups and sauces, just around that time in the afternoon when every single pot is occupied, if not in the sink with some crust stuck on it. We don't really have dishwashers in the kitchen until later in the afternoon so I have to was my own pots so I can heat up my soups. Taste it, season it, stretch it, too thin, fix it, too salty, fix it. Do I add water or stock? Do I use veg or chicken? Do I add cream or butter to keep it together. More salt? More salt! And oh the beurre blanc needs to be finished. The foam has to be set up. The artichoke has to be pureed. And I have custards in the oven that needs to be pulled out and cooled! How about my chips? Can Garde Mange fry them for me? And the grapes need to be peeled! This is a one-man station! I should be able to do it!

3 - Service - I'm not even going to elaborate on this. It's bad enough that I only have 3 burners when one plate already uses 2 out of the 3. And when there are orders fired one after the other, back to back with souffles and scallops that need to come out with an Abalone and Papas followed by a Duck Soup and a Porcini soup and 7 tasting foie steaks... I just don't know where to turn anymore. I have to get the pan down, run to the walk in, then run to the oven at the back, then fire what ever has to go out and set the plates while the proteins are on the pan, hopefully not burning if not overcooking, and make sure that the sauces are out on the window before the plate is finished.

And this is a one person station. The good thing about Hot Apps is that there's 2 or 3 other people on the line for fish and meat stations that are usually not too busy yet while the appetizers are going out. So if I holler, help comes.

So far, I've been able to get by. With a little help from my friends on the line of course, assuming they're not hardly slammed with fire tickets.

Ok, There are a few good reasons why I moved:

1 - I did like working with Chef Peter. I consider him my first chef out of culinary school... well next to my mom and my grand mother of course who were my chefs in my lifetime. I must admit I learned a lot during my internship with Chef Peter. In his kitchen, you have to run as fast as you can and get a plate up or his bullet will hit you right in the head. Ok, I'll get on that later.

2 - I'll get to work with Acacia and Brian, people I loved working with at Aqua. I learned so much from them

3 - I miss fine dining. After working at 2 other restaurants that are just as fast paced but are not really fine dining restaurants, I started missing the logistical nightmare of working in a fine dining kitchen... coordinating plates, timing everything fired at the same time, fine chiffonades and perfect micro brunois.

4 - I miss the seasonal menu of California Cuisine. I like witnessing the season change with the menu change. It's exciting!

So meet Brian Starky. He's a cool cook!
I respect his opinion when it comes to how food should taste.
If he says it's delicious. It's DELICIOUS!

And the crazy lady below is Acacia O'boyle. O boy O'boyle!

She's the craziest and probably the fastest person I've ever worked with.

You turn around and the next minute she got a sturgeon mousse together, ready to be piped in fragile fried canolis. Not to mention she sneaked out and smoked a cigarette in between prep work.

We got along well and worked very well together too! We set up a station without really talking. We can mentally communicate! She's half Filipina so sometimes we I call her my other half.

We seem to be like 2 people with the same person. Well, we were born on the same day, 5 years and 50,000 miles apart.

We're planning on getting our own thing going.
Frenchy Filipino cuisine and we'll call it Chez Pinay!

Meet Chef Peter. I don't have to say much...

In Between Blog Backlogs

So what happened between New York and California.

To make the long story short, I did love working at the Spice Market. I got to cook fish which I really enjoyed. I was able to work the Saute station, which used to be an all-man station until moi. That was really fun too. I've encountered a few sexist remarks but, it comes with it.

I enjoyed New York, a lot! But for some reason, I just had to do this. I just had to go to California and work with Chef P. I've been asking myself what the compelling reason for the move is, I really couldn't find anything concrete. Somehow, I just have to.

Fortunately or unfortunately, I'm one to follow my heart. So I did.

The transition was pretty sharp too. I had to go to work on my last day in New York. And I had to go to work almost immediately after arriving in California.

I felt like I just broke down my station in New York and woke up working another station, except it's across the country rather than simply across the kitchen.

And then it just got too busy, too busy to write a line or two to share my day to my friends and family abroad that I hardly get to talk to. The only way they find out what's going on with me is through my ramblings on my blog.

So now I'm back, catching up on blog backlogs. This time though, I'll share more recipes, tips and tricks and a few food trivia that I picked up here and there.