Friday, August 18, 2006

Homesick

It's a dream-come-true. I remember back when I was a little kid, my mom would always tell everybody how my dream was to become a waitress... while every other kid in my kindergarten class wanted to be a doctor, a laywer or an engineer... little did she know that what I really wanted to do was to work at a restaurant or have at least two of my own one day (one to make a name and another to make money (i mean, more money... *wink-wink*).

I've been fortunate to have been brought up in a conducive environment: Everybody's Cafe, the restaurant that my grandparents put up shortly after World War II. Our family history says that it was named as such because back in those days, there would be restaurants for the 'Allies' and the 'Non-Allies' so my grandparents decided to open one for everybody, thus the name Everybody's Cafe.

Everybody's Cafe has been my home. My parents said we lived elsewhere before moving to my grandparents' house which sits right on top of the restaurant but I vaguely remember those days.

I had little cooking pots and pans instead of barbies. I had little food scraps to play with instead of play dough. I played in a real kitchen. I could actually eat the food that I made.

I started working when I was about 6. My dad hired me as a sales person at his car accessories shop and paid me 20 pesos a day. I felt like I had a real job. I took it seriously. My grandmother pirated me to work as a cashier at her restaurant and paid me 50 pesos a day which was way more than my allowance so I get to buy myself some good stuff at a really young age. After a while, I wasn't exactly working as a cashier anymore. I would hangout at the restaurant, man my mom's little candy store, go with my uncle to the supermarket, help prep in the kitchen or simply make my own food.

A few years later, I went to college and almost forgot about my dream. I was pre-occupied completing my degree and getting the best job related to it. I took up MIS and got a job at Andersen Consulting, now called Accenture. It was then, and I think it still is one of the biggest and most prestigious international IT firms in the Philippines.

5 years later I decided to follow my heart. I left the firm in September of last year and flew to Chicago for culinary school. It may not be the most famous school but it was big enough to get my foot at the door. Of course it wasn't all that easy. I had to figure out funding, applied for any available scholarship and student loans including essay contests on the internet.

Finally, here I am, making my dream come true. I'm halfway thru school and interning at very good restaurants in California working with a few of my favorite things: Fish at Aqua and Desserts at Chez Panisse.

I've been working 7 days a week and rarely had time to think of missing home... but, now that I'm a little under the weather, it hit me hard, not only am I simply sick with a bad cold and a splitting headach, I'm actually homesick.

I'm missing the comforts of home. The corn soup that my mom makes out of white corn infused with leaves of chili, the dried herring that my dad fries and simmers in vinegar and sugar and the great home cooked stuff only found at Everybody's Cafe: Tsokolate Batirol made from freshly ground Cacao beans and peanuts, the Fiddlehead Fern salad with with red eggs and shrimp confit, the drippings collected from baking our original Morcon (a rich meatloaf made with my favorite Chorizo de Bilbao and other special seasoning), our very own Longganisa, sausage packed with lots of garlic and bits of pork fat, the ox tongue with white mushroom sauce, the bone marrow soup that my grandfather originally makes with corn and chickpeas (deadly!), the ox-tail stew with peanut sauce, the fried pork rind served with a cocktail of pickled garlic, carrots, shallots and bitter melons, the catfish with yellow ginger, the sweet and sour lapu-lapu filet (lapu-lapu is a red grouper with soft, white and delicate flesh), the fatty milkfish belly, the sour broth with 'ulang' (i don't know if there's a direct translation to those crustaceans, they look like a cross between a langoustine and a cray fish with a head bigger than the tail, but they come from fresh water), the taba ng talanka (crab fat that we squeeze, season and bottle for later use) that I simply eat with warm steamed milagrosa rice (small sweet grain that produces a very aromatic steam) or sometimes with angel hair pasta and sun dried tomatoes, the fried or steamed sweet fat blue crabs that we serve with green mango and tomato chutney...

I can't wait to eat them all again. Just thinking about them makes me feel better. Well, not really because now I'm getting hungry.

Some snapshots:



This is just a portion of the wall painted with bits and pieces of our national history. It's one of the elements at Everybody's Cafe that made it an institution.


The rich and frothy tsokolate batirol. It's nice and nutty. (Photo by Lori Bautista).



Our stone grinder that makes the chocolate butter used to make Tsokolate Batirol. The paste is further mixed with warm water and blended in a batirol with a wooden malonillo. I like the natural bitterness but others like enjoy it with cream and sugar.


Our homemade Leche Flan




My home and my family

My very entrepreneurial brother, Pocholo

My mom, the Chef that everybody fondly calls Tita Pette, (which means aunt, making everybody around us a relative of some sort) who doesn't seem to age a day despite a very stressful job (can you guess her age?)

My dad who's full of wisdom. I miss our heart-to-heart talks over wine and beer.

My sister Pamela, an up and coming singing diva and a future educator of the youth (she teaches cute little toddlers)

My almost twin-sister Christine, my favorite salesman (she can talk you into buying practically anything, from a pair of shoes to prime properties)


I'm very excited for my next trip home... although I'm not sure if I'll exactly be on vacation, my mom already phoned me for a heads up on a couple of restaurant related projects and I am quite thrilled.

I can't wait.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Bastille Day at Chez Panisse

I started interning at Chez Panisse in June. It has been a very exciting experience so far. I feel privileged to have been accepted as the pastry intern for Summer where so many fruits are in season and there are various special events where they prepare special theme menus.

One of the recently celebrated events was Fete dela Bastille. Bastille Day is a celebration of French Independence Day. Chez Panisse prepares a special garlic menu on this day too.

Being in pastry, one of my tasks for the event was to make the Garlic Marzipans. Day prior to the event, she gave me a heads up that she's giving me a project that will take up a lot of time so I better manage my time well so I'll have enough time for the production of the Garlic Marzipans.

We made the marzipan batter to taste. Basically we worked out some Almond Paste, added some powdered sugar to dry it out a little bit, seasoned it with lemon zest, kiersche and some salt to bring out the flavors in it. Once we got the color and the consistency that we liked, she showed me a garlic model to follow. My assignment was to make 150-200 pieces of garlic looking marzipans. I did my best to make them look like real garlic.

I think they came out really nice!


These garlic marzipans were to come with the other migniardes such as the vanilla macarons and some nut jobs. It was really busy that night so the cooks weren't able to take pictures of the beautiful desserts they plated. Reservations were well made in advance. People travelled across the country to be at Chez Panisse's Bastille Day celebration. Some people lined up at the restaurant too.

I wasn't able to help during dinner service wehre the garlic marzipans were served but the chef gave me the biggest complement the next day. 'They are the best they've seen, SINCE THE RESTAURANT OPENED."

Thanks to the chef's patience in teaching me how to make it and sharing some tips and tricks to get the work done faster too. I must admit, it was quite tedious.


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About Chez Panisse (from www.chezpanisse.com)

Chez Panisse opened its doors in 1971, started by Alice Waters and an assortment of idealistic friends. A neighborhood bistro named after a character in Marcel Pagnol's 1930's trilogy of movies (‘Marius,’ ‘Fanny,’ and ‘Cesar’), the Restaurant and CafĂ© are a homage to the sentiment, comedy and informality of these classic films.

From the beginning, Alice and her partners tried to do things the way they would like them done at a dinner party at home. The restaurant, located downstairs, is open for dinner Monday through Saturday, by reservation only. The dinner, served in two seatings from 6 to 6:30 p.m. and 8:30 to 9:30 p.m., has always consisted of only one fixed-price menu, of three to four courses. The menu changes every night, designed to be appropriate to the season and composed to show off the finest ingredients obtainable including meat, fish, and poultry.


Bastille Day
July 14, 2006. A celebration of the garlic harvest, liberty, equality, fraternity, and sorority. The music of a Parisian bal musette and a Gallic garlic menu.




Monday, July 03, 2006

Parisian Macarons. Little Treats. Good Eats


I'm obsessed with these little things. Miette Patisserie offers them in simple flavors of Chocolate, Hazelnut, Pistachios and Vanilla.

I had to buy some as soon as I saw them at The Ferry Building. I just couldn't help myself. I tried one, then two, three, four and MORE!


Ana and I had a bonding moment eating so many of these in between chit-chats in our celebration of a decade of friendship. We didn't realize we ate an entire box of them... (more like I ate an entire box of them... I think, I ate most of it! Right Ans? Say, 'no' please.)


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Miette is located at: One Ferry Building, Shop No. 10, San Francisco, CA 94111 415.837.0300 www.miettecakes.com

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Meeting 'The Apprentice'

I'm currently doing my culinary apprenticeship. I can say 2 things about it.
1 - There's so much to learn
2 - There's too little time

It's timely that I'm reading Jacques Pepin's 'The Apprentice: My Life In The Kitchen.' It helps me put things into perspective. Especially in moments when I feel like throwing away my apron in frustration.


Simply written. Very real. Truely Inspiring. I love it.

A few of my favorite quotes:

"My six-year-old's imagination filled in the rest of the details. Enourmous plow horses. Fat, grunting pigs. Dairy cows with sharp horns and swollen, swaying udders. All manner of fowl: chickens, ducks, geese. Dogs and cats. In short, heaven."

"I love the very things Roland dreamed of escaping. The hurly-burly noise of the kitchen. The heat. The sweat. The bumping of bodies.. The raised voices. The constant rush of adrenaline...I belonged... More than anything in the world, I wanted to be a chef."

And how fortunate is an apprentice to meet 'The Apprentice.'

IACP Conference, Seattle. 1 April 2006

In Black and White

I always thought I wanted to be in a profession that required a white jacket. When I was younger I thought I'll be an MD, like most of my friends from highschool. I realized that I wanted a different set of whites... and I'm proud to be wearing them now.